snowflake tutorial

Difficulty Level (Medium):

The perfect blend of wirework and chain maille, you will love making this gleaming, sterling silver snowflake. It is constructed of uniform s-links that are joined by varying sizes of jump rings. For your convenience, Wired Up Beads has assembled a custom kit that includes all the materials needed to make your own sterling silver, heirloom quality snowflake.

To ensure the success of this project, it is important for the s-links to be very uniform in size. Precision measuring and using the proper tools are key to making uniform s-links. If this is your first time to make s-links, you may want to visit our S-Link Video Tutorial for detailed instructions.

MATERIALS:

• 14-gauge copper wire to practice making the s-links (1.5 feet)
• 14-gauge sterling silver wire for s-links (2 feet)
• 16-gauge 13.0mm inside diameter sterling silver jump ring for center (1)
• 16-gauge 5.5mm inside diameter sterling silver ring for center (1)
• 18-gauge 3.0 mm inside diameter sterling silver jump rings (30)
• 18-gauge 5.0 mm inside diameter sterling silver jump rings (12)
• 18-gauge, 5.5 mm inside diameter sterling silver jump rings for bail (3)

TOOLS:

• Wubbers Classic Pliers—Chain Nose or Narrow Flat Nose, Wide Flat Nose, and Bent Nose
• Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers
• Heavy Duty Flush Wire Cutters
• Ruler
• Chasing Hammer—Polished with Slight Dome Face
• Steel block--Polished
• Tumbler with stainless steel shot and burnishing compound (optional for finishing)

BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

Make a practice s-link out of 14-gauge round, dead soft copper wire. Start with a length of wire that is 3 ¼ inches and complete Steps 1-3 below. Your finished s-link should measure 1 1/8 inches long from end to end and the small loops on each side of it should be almost directly across from each other. If needed, adjust the cut length of your copper wire in 1/8 inch increments until your s-link is the perfect proportion and length.

Cut 6 pieces of wire the exact same length as determined by your practice s-link (i.e., approximately 3 ¼ inches). Make sure that both ends are flush cut. Using the small jaw of the Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers, make a loop on each end of the six wires. The loops should face opposite directions. Note: For additional tips on making s-links, be sure to visit the free video tutorial Creating an S-Link.

The Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers are rated for use with 16-gauge wire or lighter. However, if you will place the 14-gauge wire high in the jaw (close to the box joint) rather than at the tips of the jaws, then you will avoid damage to your pliers.

	Using the larger jaw of the Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers, make the “s” bends of your links. To do this, place an end loop snug against the small jaw of the Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers and form the s-curve by rolling the wire back around the larger jaw.

Lay the s-links side by side, with the small loops all facing the same direction. This will allow you to determine the “right side” of each of the links. You will want to remain aware of the “right side” until the six links are joined to each other with jump rings.

Using a dome-faced chasing hammer, gently hammer the s-links on each end of their “right side.” You may also wish to flatten the two small loops to a lesser degree. Take care not to “overdo” the hammering to the extent that you distort your s-links or make the wire too spread out, paper thin, and brittle. It is normal for the s-links to spread open slightly.

	With your Wubbers Classic Wide Flat Nose Pliers, adjust each s-link with a back and forth motion so that the loops and curves are once again in their closed positions.

Open 24 of the 3.0mm i.d. jump rings. You will attach 12 of these to the s-links, setting the others aside for later use. Pick up each s-link one at a time and attach two jump rings on the bottom curve of each s-link, taking care not to reverse or turn the s-links.
If you will open all of the jump rings in the same direction, then you will be able to work your pattern more quickly and efficiently. For this project, if you are right handed, open your jump rings by moving the left side away from you and the right side toward you. For left handers, if you prefer to follow the instructions in a mirror image fashion, then you will want to open your jump rings the opposite direction (i.e., with the left side moving toward you while pushing the right side away from you).

	Hold two s-links side by side. Use one 3.0 mm jump ring to link the two adjacent 3.0 mm jump rings on the s-links as shown. Again, check to make sure that the links are still right side up, with all of the small loops facing the same direction.

Using the jump rings that were previously opened in Step 7, you will connect the small loops of each of the adjacent s-links to the 3.0mm jump ring as shown.

	Repeat steps 8 and 9 until your snowflake makes a circular shape.

Close the two 16-gauge jump rings (one 13.0mm and one 5.5mm). These will be used to form the center of the snowflake. Open all 12 of the 18-gauge 5.0 mm jump rings. First, you will use 6 of the open jump rings to directly link each s-link to the next s-link as well as the large 13.0 mm jump ring. The awl shows the path you will follow with a 5.0 mm jump ring to join the s-links. Then, before closing the 5.0 mm jump ring, you will also loop through the large 13mm jump ring.

When you connect the next s-link with a 5.0 mm jump ring, you will pick up the 13 mm jump ring, taking care not to flip it over—simply move it into place with the same side toward you. After connecting the second s-link, your pattern should look like the picture to the right. Continue adding the other four 5.0 mm jump rings in the same manner.

The snowflake should now look like this. It is important that all of the s-links are on the same side of the 16-gauge, 13.0 mm jump ring as shown (in the picture, the ends of the s-links are all laying underneath the 13.0 mm jump ring).

In this step, you will use the remaining six 18-gauge 5.0 mm jump rings to connect the 16-gauge, 5.5 mm jump ring to the 13.0 mm jump ring and the corresponding s-link. When you add these jump rings, they will be positioned between the jump rings added in Step 12. Each s-link should be connected to the two 16-gauge jump rings that form the middle of the snowflake. To do so, thread an 18-gauge, 5.0 mm jump ring, through the 16-gauge 5.5 mm jump ring, the adjoining s-link, and the 16-gauge, 13.0 mm jump ring.

Turn the snowflake so that the two large jump rings are on the backside. You will likely find that the snowflake hangs more evenly when turned a particular direction, so it is recommended that you hold the snowflake in different positions to determine the direction in which it appears most symmetrical. Once you have determined which s-link should be top and center, then you will attach three 18-gauge 5.5 mm jump rings to serve as the bail.

Now that your snowflake is finished, you can tumble polish it to bring it to a brilliant shine. If you have never tumble polished sterling before, please visit our free tutorial, Tumbling Magic 101.